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30° 27' 54.324'' N 97° 37' 29.316'' W

Aaron McHugh| 6 minute read

Trip Report: Alaska’s Gates of the Arctic

“Alaska’s Ultimate Wilderness,” The Brooks Range-North America’s Northernmost mountain range is home to The Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. In early June of 2021, our adventure trio Chris, Dave, and I, explored eighty-three trail-less miles inside the Gates of the Arctic. For eight days, we became Arctic residents in this expansive manless environment. Without human contact, constant silence, our fourth adventure companion.

A quick snapshot: Our intended exploration itinerary was to cross multiple high mountain passes, arranging for a bush plane pickup eight days later. To our surprise, winter’s blanket still covered the high peaks and mountain passes with waist-deep snow limiting our travel to the lower elevation glacial valleys. Slowly the Arctic awoke to spring’s animation accelerated by twenty-three hours of daylight and rain. River’s swelled as every hillside, peak, and knoll drained winter’s cold shroud.

Most of the locals appeared not to register what we were. Our wildlife log included the Western Arctic Caribou, Grizzly bear, Dall sheep, moose, Arctic fox, ptarmigan. Our tundra trio experienced a rare and elusive lone wolverine attempting to share our breakfast.

Walking up another nameless valley, west of Oolah Valley, this headwall looked like something from the Karakorum range in Pakistan. We often questioned what planet were we on, or which David Attenborough film were we in?

Why Go Here?
We went to see and experience a wild, undeveloped, rugged wilderness void of man’s intrusive disruption. Alaska’s Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, located in the Arctic Circle, is as wild and untamed as early explorers discovered her in the 1880s.

Camp 4 underneath the Karakorum headwall, our lullaby was crashing ice sheets falling down the North face as the twenty-three hour daylight and rain rapidly accelerated winters retreat.

Some facts about “The Gates”
There are countless unnamed peaks, frigid crags, and endless tundra north of the divide. The park boundary is the second largest national park in North America, making it 3.5 times larger than Yellowstone. Containing no roads, trails, or signs, and if you underestimate what’s required, the National Park Service warns, you must be self-sufficient. There is NO ONE nearby if you run into trouble.

How long should I go for? A few days to weeks. Most groups require food resupply after 8-10 days. Our eight day, seven night trip was perfect.

Ascending to investigate will the snow provide a window of travel or will we be turned around?

Season: When asking the question “when should I go,” The Brooks Range has a complicated set of questions, trade-offs, and considerations to evaluate. See Andrew Skurka’s Quick Start Guide assess your options thoroughly. We arrived Mid-June which came with twenty-hours+ of daylight, requiring an eye mask to sleep and before mosquito season.

“Moose Alley,” we nicknamed this couple of mile head-high thicket. Endless brush, alder, and willows towering over-head and impairing our view. We followed Moose scat up the riverbed, gauging “how fresh is that scat” anxiously wanting to avoid surprising a 1,000 lb. Alaskan bull moose.

My Journal entries during our adventure
Day 2: Terrain is a Star Wars movie. Endless valleys, wide sweeping glacial remnants. The hills are dormant-not awaken to alpine summer.
Day 2 evening: Out and up unnamed valley toward unnamed pass. Lots of deep snow. Decided to turn down after watching a small snow slide break across our path. Full hearted day as friends as brothers.
Day 3: Grizzly bears, caribou, arctic fox, moose-a regular alpine zoo. Amazing. Big river we decided not to cross-swollen, fast.
Day 4-5: No entry. Guess, I was too tired. Nursing an Achilles heel injury I brought with me.
Day 6: “God is the country in which I live” Eugene Peterson
Pickup day: @ landing strip, crossed river last night after we pitched our tents on a windy ridge. Decided to walk to here instead. Awaiting Dirk’s pickup, Coyote Air 1953 bush plane “Pumpkin”.

Coyote Air owner and Alaskan bush pilot veteran Dirk dropped us above the frozen Oolah Lake straight onto the tundra landing strip. Unloaded our gear, checked that the wind hadn’t changed, and down-winded into his takeoff for home. Returning eight days later to retrieve us and fly back to Coldfoot, AK.

Getting there by bush plane
Custom charter air taxi “bush plane” service from Coyote Air in Coldfoot, AK. Our pilots, Dirk Nickish & Danielle Tirrell are seasoned Arctic veterans. Getting to Coldfoot: From Fairbanks or Anchorage, AK, fly Wright Air or drive the Dalton Highway five to six hours from Fairbanks. Getting to The Gates required a total of four airline legs. Denver to Anchorage, to Fairbanks, to Coldfoot, to the Gates of the Arctic drop point to begin our adventure. Plan on enjoying the Alaskan experience where the weather influences every schedule. In total our air travel cost was around $2,000.

Evening happy hour ritual with a finger or less of whiskey, a music playlist chosen by the tent host. Priceless. I scratched handwritten VIP invitation tickets for each of the fellas, “Come join me for happy hour.” Chris retained his VIP ticket, it sits bedside back at home to today, a reminder of the beauty in little things. These wild places remind us that we are proud owners of everything that can’t be purchased.

Gear worthy of mention:
I’ve upgraded the backcountry equipment I carry on these expeditions with a focus on ultra light. I’m no zealot over ounces, but I do appreciate stuff that works, stuff that holds up and reduces my base weight of 13-14 lbs (my pack weight including everything but food and water).
Feathered Friends Helios Hooded Down Jacket
Hyperlight’s 4400 Southwest Ultralight backpack
Sierra Design High Route 1 person shelter
Trail Design Sidewinder Tri-Ti 900 ML bundle Alcohol stove

My favorite piece of gear for this trip was my Feathered Friends Helios down hooded jacket. Instant warmth, compressible and easy-to-access pockets to plunge in cold hands. Pictured here heating up our breakfast “cuppa” after a few hours of walking over tussock. “A tussock is a large knob of soil with tufts of grass or sedges growing on top. They range in a variety of sizes, and are a notable obstacle when walking.”

Resources:
Andrew Skurka has extensive experience exploring the Brooks Range and provides backpacking enthusiasts helpful resources: A quick start guide, a gear list for June, and details about their guided trips.

When the sun came out, the rain stopped, we danced like kings, Tundra Tough kings. The expansiveness of the place held big questions like “Who is God? and What’s God really like? What’s next for me in this season?” Our buddy Dave was getting married in a few months, and we explorers-the wedding party-the minister, groom, and best man.

Special thanks:
Dave Eitemiller, the Pathfinder, put this trip together with his extensive Arctic experience and love for analytics, logistics, and planning. He deserves special thanks as well for many of these photos. Thanks to Andrew Skurka and the opportunity to benefit from your six-month exploration of the Brooks Range.

A letter from home, a picture for each day my lovely wife hid in my pack before departure. So invigorating to open each day.
Springs emergence become more evident by the day. The gift of arriving mid-June, we witnessed the daily awakening of subtle colors of life.
Weeks later, our buddy Dave still guiding in the Gates, reminded us of how majestic the Arctic tundra became after our departure. We must go back and see it ourselves.
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About the Author Aaron McHugh

Aaron McHugh is an executive transformation coach, enterprise agility consultant, writer, podcaster, adventurer, and author of Fire Your Boss: Discover Work You Love Without Quitting Your Job.

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